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12 12 lightcycle from seed led weed grow video

Transition to Bloom Phase: When & how to switch

Plants need at least 13 hours of light each day to stay in veg – a few ‘long’ nights may be enough to trigger budding. Plants begin budding when they get at least 12 hours of ‘uninterrupted’ darkness each night (12/12). This must continue until harvest. Even if darkness is interrupted briefly, flowering will be hindered. In fact plants may revert back to veg unless 12 hour nights are maintained. Employ a timer to help ensure consistency. NOTE: For outdoor grows, light deprivation techniques will need to be employed to trigger flowering when nights are too short.

When to switch? There are 2 main considerations:

Age of plant: “Cuttings” can be switched as soon as desired, however, for optimum yields it is generally best to wait until the clone has a strong root system (typically 2-3 weeks old). For “seedlings”, if space (and time) permit, better yields can be obtained from a 6-8 week veg period. Alternatively they can be switched straight after germination, however they are biologically incapable of budding until about 3 weeks of age.

Height of plant: Depending on the strain, plants will generally double in size during flowering. So, if ‘room’ height is limited, the switch to 12/12 will need to be done no later than when the plant has reached 50% of the ‘available’ height (remember to consider the minimum gap distance between lamp and foliage). Topping and LST (see section) are very useful techniques for keeping plants short and bushy and will help enable a long veg (6-8 weeks) if required.

Bloom Phase (Powering the Flower)

As a rule-of-thumb, in the first 2-3 weeks of flowering the plant will continue to grow in height (termed “flowering-stretch”) and buds will begin to form. Following this, floral growth will dominate and veg growth will slow then stop. Some general principles:

1. Lights are switched “off” for 12 hours per day – uninterrupted! Use high pressure sodium (HPS) lamps, rich in the yellow-red parts of the lighting spectrum.

2. Increase the air-exchange rate. Flowering plants tend to prefer a gradual lowering of relative humidity to around 40–60% (high humidity can cause rot and mildew). General optimum temperature is 68-82 deg F (20-27 deg C). Also, carbon dioxide consumption is reaching its peak and is therefore often the weakest link (Fig 7.1.).

3. Avoid lamp burn by ensuring to keep foliage at a safe distance ( Table 3 ). Do not keep plants too far away though as this will encourage “stretching”.

4. Avoid stressing plants by pruning during flowering unless there is over-crowding or damaged growth. Major ‘structural’ pruning should be conducted during veg.

5. Don’t get complacent with bugs or diseases such as powdery mildew! Regularly check both sides of foliage on all your plants—especially those that sometimes get overlooked in the corner.

Avoiding the Stretch!

Many growers complain that their plants ‘stretch’ excessively, especially in the first 2-3 weeks of flower. Along with potentially reduced yields, lower foliage will be more difficult to light efficiently, and top foliage is at risk of being burnt if lamps cannot be raised any higher. Plants can also be gangly and weak and therefore susceptible to breaking once loaded with buds. Although “flowering-stretch” is biologically unavoidable, there are ways of minimizing it:

1. Source a strain which is prone to being short.

2. Ensure plants receive enough light. Lack of light causes an additional “stretch” response whereby plants grow taller and with fewer buds. Lack of light can be caused by:

Shading, due to plants being positioned too close to one another. It is generally more productive to plant fewer plants, rather than more.
Lamps being too far from foliage will cause plants to ‘stretch’ to find light. Note, avoid having lamps too close as this will also induce stretching.

3. Use an MH lamp for the first 2-3 weeks of flower, then switch to HPS. The orange/red spectrum of HPS and other “flowering-specific” lamps encourages stretching. Conversely, the “blue” spectrum of MH tends to inhibit stem stretch.

4. Keep the night (lights-off) temperature cooler but within about 9 deg F (5 deg C) of the day temperature. Ensure the day temperature is kept below about 82 deg F (27 deg C).

5. Maintain sufficient air flow. This tends to promote shorter, stronger plants.

6. Topping and LST are ideal for modifying the plant to ensure all foliage receives enough light. The majority of this should be done during veg.

FLOWER Phase Instructions

You easily initiate transitioning to the FLOWER phase by changing your light cycle to 12 hours ON and 12 hours OFF (12 / 12) using a light timer.

In 1 – 2 weeks after the light cycle was switched, flowers begin forming with white hair like structures called pistils at what is called a bud site. As soon as you can see the flowers developing, then you begin to count the weeks of FLOWER. For example, FLOWER week 1, FLOWER week 2, FLOWER week 3, so on and so forth. Don’t count FLOWER weeks until you see flowers. Don’t count FLOWER weeks when you flip to 12/12, instead wait until flowers are observed.

FLOWER phase is all about flowers growing. There’s not much to do.

Within FLOWER phase, there is early-FLOWER, mid-FLOWER, and late-FLOWER.

During early FLOWER, the flowers begin forming on what growers like to call bud sites. Flowers start bulking up and developing white sparkling trichomes in mid-FLOWER. In late-FLOWER they’ll be the most aromatic, and they smell the strongest in their morning hours and at night before lights out.

You’ll be surprised at how drastic the flowers visually transform on a weekly basis. Flower week 2 looks so much different than Flower week 4, and the said can be said of Flower week 4 compared to Flower week 6, 7, or 8. To make sure you see the transformation from a weekly vantage point, just take a picture or video every 7 days to track the transformation on your phone. During mid to late FLOWER phase, it is normal for leaves to change from green to yellow and brown. Or if you’re lucky, they might fade into shades of red, purple, orange, etc.

Some strains will still grow and stretch in the FLOWER phase, like Kushman’s Grape Ape. But for the most part, after FLOWER weeks 2 or 3, most strains stop growing tall and focus exclusively on flower growth.

Overall in FLOWER phase, there’s not too much to do.

All you need to do in FLOWER phase is fertilize properly, water properly, defoliate just a little, and manage the temperature and humidity as best as you can. Plus, you’ll do some pest control sprays before the flowers get developed fully. In FLOWER phase, water your plants as needed, however you can expect your plants to need more frequent watering sessions than in VEG phase. Don’t overwater though. It would be better to under water than to water too much.

Each week, the flowers transform and take on a quite distinctive appearance. They’ll bulk up especially in late FLOWER phase, so don’t be disappointed if the flowers aren’t as big as you had hoped during FLOWER week 4. The sticky, frosty, smelly sparkly substance all over the flowers and sugar leaves are called trichomes. Trichomes are full of cannabinoids and terpenes, which are the compounds that cause the fragrances and influence the effects you feel.

Most home growers understandably stop using pest control sprays after FLOWER week 2. No one wants to negatively affect the taste of their home grown flowers. Many pest control sprays claim you can use them “up to day of harvest,” but cannabis growers who smoking their end product aren’t interested. Even though many home growers stop pest control sprays all together in FLOWER week 2 or 3, there is still a way to use them. You can read more about this grow technique coming up.

To smell your flowers properly, do a sniff test simply by rubbing your fingers back and forth on a section of the stem right in between a couple buds / flowers. Then smell your fingers. Do not grab or pinch the flowers / buds themselves. Instead put your fingers on the stalk or stem in between flowers / buds and rub there. Be forewarned, the first time you get a whiff of fresh strong terpenes, you might literally want to shout for joy or sing. Do it! If it smells strong, then you’ll know your cannabis flowers are in ideal shape. You can start your sniff tests in FLOWER week 3 or 4 when you see plenty of sparkling trichomes.

If there’s never a strong smell, you might have bad or weak cannabis genetics, or you could have a plant disease like Hop Latent Viroid. Hop Latent Viroid is a modern plant disease that causes plants to produce very little trichomes, weak branches, and poor yields. However, don’t rule out overwatering for lack of fragrance, if that’s an issue. Overwatering does not help cannabis flowers thrive. It really hurts them. If you’ve been overwatering, your flowers might not get real smelly.

Towards the end of FLOWER phase, you can begin to assess the trichomes on the flowers (not the leaves) with a jewelers scope to determine when a plant is ripe, mature, and ready to harvest.

Here’s what to do in FLOWER phase –

1. Change the light cycle to 12 hours ON / 12 hours OFF.

2. Feed the soil w/ Dr. Earth’s “Flower Girl” topdressing fertilizer.

3. Water plants as needed.

4. Apply pest control (ideally up until FLOWER week 2 or 3).

5. Defoliate the top of your canopy in early-FLOWER to allow light penetration.

6. Ensure temperature and humidity are in the acceptable range. (50 – 60% RH is the ideal humidity range and 70 – 80 F is the ideal temperature range.)

7. Assess trichomes with a jewelers scope to determine when to harvest and chop plants down.

If it’s very hot inside and hard to keep the temperatures in your grow tent down, then you should make sure the LED light is turned down if possible. High heat over 80 F can evaporate and diminish terpenes. That’s not good. Another solution to heat issues is running LED grow lights at night instead of during the heat of the day. Or, use LEDs that don’t get hot. Some do and some do not get hot.

Be careful with your open vents at the bottom of the tent when your grow tent is in a well lit room during FLOWER phase. In a very dimly lit room, I would not be concerned about light penetrating the plants from opened vents however. But if it’s a bright room, keep the vents closed. Having closed vents may cause tent to suction in on itself. That’s ok and it is commonplace.

The Green Carpet Growing FLOWER phase timeline:

12/12 TRANSITION week – Fertilize w/ Dr. Earth’s “Flower Girl” Topdressing Fertilizer
FLOWER week 1 – Pest prevention spray
FLOWER week 2 – Defoliate and Fertilize w/ Dr. Earth’s “Flower Girl” Topdressing Fertilizer
FLOWER week 3 – Pest prevention spray
FLOWER week 4 – Fertilize w/ Dr. Earth’s “Flower Girl” Topdressing Fertilizer
FLOWER week 5
FLOWER week 6 – Fertilize w/ Dr. Earth’s “Flower Girl” Topdressing Fertilizer
FLOWER week 7 – Asses trichomes
FLOWER week 8 – Assess trichomes
FLOWER week 9 – Assess trichomes

Defoliate in FLOWER week 2 after the bud sites have begun flowering. If you see leaves blocking flowers from the light above, try to move them, but if that doesn’t work, remove them. It’s important to expose the top canopy of your flowers to the light and not allow leaves to block any of your tops.

How do you know when a cannabis plant in FLOWER phase is ready to be harvested? Other ways of asking this question could be: how do you know when a cannabis plant is ripe? Or how do you know when a cannabis plant is mature?

For starters, if the trichomes observed with the jeweler scope are clear and transparent, then the cannabis plant is not ready to be harvested, nor is it ripe or mature. Milky white is the color that means the trichomes are ripe, mature and ready. The last colors you might see are orange, red, or brown. These dark colored trichomes indicate the plant’s THC has converted to CBN, a different cannabinoid all together that is known to make most people feel ultra-drowsy. “Sleepy time weed” is made by overripening any cannabis strain. Try it and see for yourself!

Get ready for the next and final phase of growing: HARVEST phase. HARVEST phase consists of drying and then curing your weed. As soon as you have dried cannabis however, feel free to smoke it if you’re, you know, all out! It won’t be as smooth as if it were cured for a couple weeks, but it should taste great and be relatively smooth. If it tastes harsh, it might not be totally dry. You’re about learn the in’s and out’s of harvesting, so head to the final chapter.

First time grower, can i use lights that are meant for filming

I recently bought some devil harvest seeds and am eager to plant them. However i have never grown marijuana before and i have some questions. I would also like to endever in filming, video edeting and such, and was wondering if i could use the lights, that are primarely meant for filming, to also grow marijuana. Two birds with one stone . I was going to buy the led lights, how much wattage do the lightbulbs need to have and how many hours of light does the plants need ?
I would also like to ask about the temperature. I shall be growing inside, however the room where i wish to plant is sometimes quite chilly. I’d say from 10-15°C, but a lot hotter in the summertime.

boybelue
Well-Known Member
BuddingHorticulturist
Well-Known Member

I recently bought some devil harvest seeds and am eager to plant them. However i have never grown marijuana before and i have some questions. I would also like to endever in filming, video edeting and such, and was wondering if i could use the lights, that are primarely meant for filming, to also grow marijuana. Two birds with one stone . I was going to buy the led lights, how much wattage do the lightbulbs need to have and how many hours of light does the plants need ?
I would also like to ask about the temperature. I shall be growing inside, however the room where i wish to plant is sometimes quite chilly. I’d say from 10-15°C, but a lot hotter in the summertime.

Not sure about the lights, but you don’t want your temps to go below 15.5*C/60* F with the lights off, and that is quite low. I would keep your temp between 18*C/65*F to 21*C/70*F.

Your temp with lights on should be slightly higher than with lights off. Max temp you wanna go is about 27*C/82*F. Above those temps you’ll see more problems than anything.

DwayneWayne
Well-Known Member

Idk how you’re gonna kill 2 birds with one stone unless you’re planning on filming during the dark cycle.

Get a cheap HPS off craigslist?

PakkiTheDog
Member

Oh good, so much useful information. I think i’ll leave the lights on during the night so the temperature doesn’t fall too low, and than use the lights during the day for filming. Also i’ll go with the 18/6 method. Oh also the electricity is cheaper at night so extra bonus. Also there is a small window in the room that also gives out some light that i’ll cover up with something.

I would also like to ask a few more questions. How high does the plant usually grow and also how much distance should there be between the plant and the lights? Also also XD, how big pots do you recommend i seed them in? And what fertelizer do you recommend? I was thinking of using horse manure or is that a mistake?

As for the lights i was thinking something in the line of the bellow links. Just the stands. What light bulbs do you recommend besides HPS? Also anyone knows the wattage?

DwayneWayne
Well-Known Member
spliffendz
Well-Known Member
WillieP
Well-Known Member

Pakki,
I would suggest starting out here:

Grow Weed Easy – Learn How to Grow Cannabis with Simple Tutorials

Lots of information set up in a tutorial format.
When you come to a specific question, RIU has a great search function.

Good luck on your journey!
Cheers,
WillieP

BuddingHorticulturist
Well-Known Member

Oh good, so much useful information. I think i’ll leave the lights on during the night so the temperature doesn’t fall too low, and than use the lights during the day for filming. Also i’ll go with the 18/6 method. Oh also the electricity is cheaper at night so extra bonus. Also there is a small window in the room that also gives out some light that i’ll cover up with something.

I would also like to ask a few more questions. How high does the plant usually grow and also how much distance should there be between the plant and the lights? Also also XD, how big pots do you recommend i seed them in? And what fertelizer do you recommend? I was thinking of using horse manure or is that a mistake?

As for the lights i was thinking something in the line of the bellow links. Just the stands. What light bulbs do you recommend besides HPS? Also anyone knows the wattage?

1) plant height is dependent upon multiple factors- genetics, nutrients, light, etc. it’s impossible to determine how tall or big your plants will get without more information on all of the above.

2) in terms of lights- here’s what I have and it’s been great so far- I have this in 600w with another 200w led in a 4ftx3ftx5ft space and it really seems to be leading to some great growth. Start with MH light for veg and switch to HPS at flower

3) I use 3 gallon pots for my autoflowers.

4) I keep lights 18” or so away. It might be a little further or closer as I don’t measure how far they’re actually away from the plants

other things to consider, get a thermostat and small space heater that will automatically kick on when your temp drops too low. That ease of mind will be invaluable.

do you have an exhaust fan? If not, you’ll likely be needing one.

Also, are you paying attention to your humidity levels? It is a very important factor that can break your heart if you don’t pay attention to it.

If I were you, I would study up and get my ducks in a row before I started popping beans into dirt.

PakkiTheDog
Member

You guys are awesome, thanks for all the help. I’v done some reading and would like some more opinions if i can proceed.

So I’d use 5x 3 gallon pots, with the bellow 3 lights with HPS 600w light bulbs. Should they be enough and do the job?
I think with the light bulbs the temperature should stay around 20°C as i mean to leave the lights on during the night and than turn them down during the day. I’m going to do the 18/6 cycle followed by 12/12. If i understand correctly it takes 3 weeks for the plant to start flowering? Does that mean that you maintain the 12/12 cycle for the remainder of the plants life?
Is it enough if i open a window once a day for the air to change?
Also can i successfully grow the plant without adding nutrition? To be honest the whole nutrition’s and Ph levels confuse me, can i just water it or is it best to also add nutrition’s? Also how much should i water the plants?

PakkiTheDog
Member
boybelue
Well-Known Member
BuddingHorticulturist
Well-Known Member

You guys are awesome, thanks for all the help. I’v done some reading and would like some more opinions if i can proceed.

So I’d use 5x 3 gallon pots, with the bellow 3 lights with HPS 600w light bulbs. Should they be enough and do the job?
I think with the light bulbs the temperature should stay around 20°C as i mean to leave the lights on during the night and than turn them down during the day. I’m going to do the 18/6 cycle followed by 12/12. If i understand correctly it takes 3 weeks for the plant to start flowering? Does that mean that you maintain the 12/12 cycle for the remainder of the plants life?
Is it enough if i open a window once a day for the air to change?
Also can i successfully grow the plant without adding nutrition? To be honest the whole nutrition’s and Ph levels confuse me, can i just water it or is it best to also add nutrition’s? Also how much should i water the plants?

If you’re growing indoors, you’re presumably doing it for the benefit of having total control of the grow. For example, the box I built has a 600cfm exhaust fan at the top and intake vents at the bottom with filtered intakes (this is important because you want clean air entering your grow space). So, anytime the fan is on, the air inside is exchanged with fresh air from outside. But this is different than leaving a window open for air. By doing this you expose your crop to environmental factors such as mold, mildew, and pests.

Regarding your lights, I’m not sure If I would recommend them or not. Are they powered, or do you have a ballast to use? Why not go with a proven grow light and build a legit DIY setup and get out of this what you put in. You’d be amazed how well it grows when your environmental factors are in control.

And to answer your question about when they flower. My autos started showing signs at 3 weeks. I’m currently on day 34 growing 4 strains, and 3 of the 4 are fully forming buds (couple pics attached) and the final one is just beginning to push pistils, so it depends upon strain.

regarding light schedule- leave it 18/6, or 20/4 the whole way for autos. If you start with 18/6 I’d stick with that.

I would suggest that you start doing a lot of research and answer the following questions before you begin growing:

1) where will you grow it?
2) how will you precisely control humidity, and temperature? How will you prevent extreme temp swings in either direction?
3) what medium are you growing in? (Soil, hydro, coco)
4) what nutes are you going to use?
5) have you sourced your water yet?
6) do you have a pH meter? And do you know the pH of the water you’re using?

Those factors are so critical to growing some quality herb. Sure, you can grow some crappy basement weed In sub-optimal conditions, but why would you want to?

also, I stress, do some research and learn about the link between nutrient absorption and pH. A big part of the plants production depends on that factor and it’s not that difficult. Google is a wonderful thing!

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PakkiTheDog
Member

If you’re growing indoors, you’re presumably doing it for the benefit of having total control of the grow. For example, the box I built has a 600cfm exhaust fan at the top and intake vents at the bottom with filtered intakes (this is important because you want clean air entering your grow space). So, anytime the fan is on, the air inside is exchanged with fresh air from outside. But this is different than leaving a window open for air. By doing this you expose your crop to environmental factors such as mold, mildew, and pests.

Regarding your lights, I’m not sure If I would recommend them or not. Are they powered, or do you have a ballast to use? Why not go with a proven grow light and build a legit DIY setup and get out of this what you put in. You’d be amazed how well it grows when your environmental factors are in control.

And to answer your question about when they flower. My autos started showing signs at 3 weeks. I’m currently on day 34 growing 4 strains, and 3 of the 4 are fully forming buds (couple pics attached) and the final one is just beginning to push pistils, so it depends upon strain.

regarding light schedule- leave it 18/6, or 20/4 the whole way for autos. If you start with 18/6 I’d stick with that.

I would suggest that you start doing a lot of research and answer the following questions before you begin growing:

1) where will you grow it?
2) how will you precisely control humidity, and temperature? How will you prevent extreme temp swings in either direction?
3) what medium are you growing in? (Soil, hydro, coco)
4) what nutes are you going to use?
5) have you sourced your water yet?
6) do you have a pH meter? And do you know the pH of the water you’re using?

Those factors are so critical to growing some quality herb. Sure, you can grow some crappy basement weed In sub-optimal conditions, but why would you want to?

also, I stress, do some research and learn about the link between nutrient absorption and pH. A big part of the plants production depends on that factor and it’s not that difficult. Google is a wonderful thing!

To be honest i was just planning on buying a surge protector and nothing else. As for the lights i am planning on turning them on and off manually. It’s no problem really. I guess i’m just trying to save like 100€, mostly use the lights for filming after the harvest, but if you guys rather recommend specialised lights i’ll go for those. I just don’t completely understand what exactly is the difference.
Also i guess it is better safe than sorry, i shall take another look at nutrients and try to wrap my head around it XD. As for the Ph of the water, it should be around 6-7. It comes from a clean water source, but i shall test it before attempting to seed.
So the amount of watering just depends on the humidity in the room? On what % should it stay? Otherwise i was going to use the soil, probably buy something from the market and than add some compost. But like i said, i’ll try to do some more reading on it tonight.

BuddingHorticulturist
Well-Known Member

To be honest i was just planning on buying a surge protector and nothing else. As for the lights i am planning on turning them on and off manually. It’s no problem really. I guess i’m just trying to save like 100€, mostly use the lights for filming after the harvest, but if you guys rather recommend specialised lights i’ll go for those. I just don’t completely understand what exactly is the difference.
Also i guess it is better safe than sorry, i shall take another look at nutrients and try to wrap my head around it XD. As for the Ph of the water, it should be around 6-7. It comes from a clean water source, but i shall test it before attempting to seed.
So the amount of watering just depends on the humidity in the room? On what % should it stay? Otherwise i was going to use the soil, probably buy something from the market and than add some compost. But like i said, i’ll try to do some more reading on it tonight.

Based on the nature of some of the questions you are asking, my suggestion If I were you, Is to do more research as it seems like you don’t know the basics of growing. Watering isn’t predicated on humidity levels. You water the plants when the pots are dry. The amount of water in the pots can and do affect the humidity in your grow though.

I understand my feedback may be discouraging or frustrating for you but I’m trying to help you grow the best product you can.
Based on your plan, you’re setting yourself up for failure and frustration instead of success .

Your system should be as automated as possible. Lights should be automated, fans, dehumidifiers, heaters, etc, should all be automated to reduce as much human error and manual work as possible. You should be using technology to optimize your environmental factors, not steering away from it to save a buck or two here and there. Saving money now won’t necessarily equate to saving money down the line.

Don’t cut corners, do it right and you’ll thank yourself, and your plants will thank you with their yields!

Just my opinion!

PakkiTheDog
Member

Based on the nature of some of the questions you are asking, my suggestion If I were you, Is to do more research as it seems like you don’t know the basics of growing. Watering isn’t predicated on humidity levels. You water the plants when the pots are dry. The amount of water in the pots can and do affect the humidity in your grow though.

I understand my feedback may be discouraging or frustrating for you but I’m trying to help you grow the best product you can.
Based on your plan, you’re setting yourself up for failure and frustration instead of success .

Your system should be as automated as possible. Lights should be automated, fans, dehumidifiers, heaters, etc, should all be automated to reduce as much human error and manual work as possible. You should be using technology to optimize your environmental factors, not steering away from it to save a buck or two here and there. Saving money now won’t necessarily equate to saving money down the line.

Don’t cut corners, do it right and you’ll thank yourself, and your plants will thank you with their yields!

Just my opinion!

I’d say that’s a bit of an exaggeration. Definitely first time marijuana grower but i had a garden here and there. The thing is each plant has it’s different bio sistem, and different plants prefer different care. And i do understand that the more you water, the higher the humidity is, especially if there is no air circulation. However i haven’t found anything about watering therefore i asked.

As for automatization i do not agree with you. Maybe for a long time grower, but i do not wish to spend and buy a bunch of extra equipment that i will have no use for if i stop growing weed. It’s not about being cheap or cutting corners. As for the strain i read that it should be a stronger breed, especially better for colder conditions. And i am not interested in the highest % yield possible, just enough to save some money and have supplies for longer periods of quality weed.

So basically what i’m asking, if i just water regularly (on how many hours do you water yours?), maintain the temperatures between 15-25 and follow the cycles it should be a successful yield? That one out of five plants should succeed? Also i really want to know if there is any difference between the lights that i posted and the ones that are recommended. If the only thing that matters is the correct wattage and light bulbs shouldn’t they do?

BuddingHorticulturist
Well-Known Member

I’d say that’s a bit of an exaggeration. Definitely first time marijuana grower but i had a garden here and there. The thing is each plant has it’s different bio sistem, and different plants prefer different care. And i do understand that the more you water, the higher the humidity is, especially if there is no air circulation. However i haven’t found anything about watering therefore i asked.

As for automatization i do not agree with you. Maybe for a long time grower, but i do not wish to spend and buy a bunch of extra equipment that i will have no use for if i stop growing weed. It’s not about being cheap or cutting corners. As for the strain i read that it should be a stronger breed, especially better for colder conditions. And i am not interested in the highest % yield possible, just enough to save some money and have supplies for longer periods of quality weed.

So basically what i’m asking, if i just water regularly (on how many hours do you water yours?), maintain the temperatures between 15-25 and follow the cycles it should be a successful yield? That one out of five plants should succeed? Also i really want to know if there is any difference between the lights that i posted and the ones that are recommended. If the only thing that matters is the correct wattage and light bulbs shouldn’t they do?

Then I’ll stop providing suggestions to you. All I can do is give you my personal opinion which I formed based off of the extensive research I’ve done regarding all the factors at play while growing herb.

Not to be rude, but your ignorance is showing just in the questions that you’re asking. This is my first time growing weed as well, and you know what I did before I joined RIU and popped beans? I went and researched the shit out of growing weed. I looked up videos by Jorge Cervantes and other reputable sources. What I didn’t do was ask others for their opinions and then discredit that information because it didn’t jive with my (at the time) basic understanding of growing weed. If you don’t want someone else’s opinion, don’t ask for it. But my opinion is that you have more research to do before you’re even close to trying to have a successful grow.

Go ahead if you want and pop 5 seeds under those lights without nutrients, an understanding of the importance of pH and nutrient uptake, automatic light timers or any type of true environmental control and see how long it takes you to run into problems. Then, do me a favor and report back when all your plants are dead and then re read all the posts with an overwhelming amount advice that I’ve already given you. My guess is if your first grow is done half assed you won’t ever grow weed again because your results will be sub-par.

To your point of growing outdoor plants (no matter the kind) in a garden. You should understand that indoor growing is significantly different with different challenges than you would encounter when growing weed in an outdoor environment.

PakkiTheDog
Member

Then I’ll stop providing suggestions to you. All I can do is give you my personal opinion which I formed based off of the extensive research I’ve done regarding all the factors at play while growing herb.

Not to be rude, but your ignorance is showing just in the questions that you’re asking. This is my first time growing weed as well, and you know what I did before I joined RIU and popped beans? I went and researched the shit out of growing weed. I looked up videos by Jorge Cervantes and other reputable sources. What I didn’t do was ask others for their opinions and then discredit that information because it didn’t jive with my (at the time) basic understanding of growing weed. If you don’t want someone else’s opinion, don’t ask for it. But my opinion is that you have more research to do before you’re even close to trying to have a successful grow.

Go ahead if you want and pop 5 seeds under those lights without nutrients, an understanding of the importance of pH and nutrient uptake, automatic light timers or any type of true environmental control and see how long it takes you to run into problems. Then, do me a favor and report back when all your plants are dead and then re read all the posts with an overwhelming amount advice that I’ve already given you. My guess is if your first grow is done half assed you won’t ever grow weed again because your results will be sub-par.

To your point of growing outdoor plants (no matter the kind) in a garden. You should understand that indoor growing is significantly different with different challenges than you would encounter when growing weed in an outdoor environment.

I really don’t understand what is up with your attitude, definitely didn’t expect this kind of behaviour on the marijuana forums. And you definitely are being rude for no real reason. AND YOU ARE A FIRST TIME GROWER. And you are giving me shit, because you used google and bought what was suggested to you by others, a recipe you followed to the letter because you probably actually don’t have any experience growing plants, and are just being hot headed and overly proud!

I’v worked on the garden ever since i’v been 15 (7 years), planting different vegetables including tomatoes. Do you think growing tomatoes is easy, especially without pesticides? BUT YOU CAN DO IT. The plants are stronger than you think and you are exaggerating! Even if the plants die i lose 40€ of seeds, better than hundreds on equipment. STOP being so narrow minded! I respect your opinion, but don’t force it on me, especially by being rude when it is uncalled for!

All i want to know is a simple math question. Can a plant successfully grow if (t 15-25°c) + regular watering + 3 weeks 18/6 later 12/12 + 600w HPS + linked lights yes/no? And if no, why not?

You say i should search on google, but you are incapable of telling me yourself. Sometimes it is not the student that can’t understand the lesson, but the teacher that can’t teach it.
I did google it and it says it’s optional! You do know that plants get nutrition from the dirt you buy or the one from the back yard. If you use better nutrition it will grow faster and might produce higher yields, but that doesn’t mean nothing will grow if you don’t use it. And what kind of soil do you think we have, i leave at the country side in one of the greenest countries in Europe with cleanest water. I really think you are exaggerating a bit.