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March gardening jobs: 10 ways to get your garden in shape

March gardening jobs are basically all about looking forward to warmer days and getting the garden ready for the rest of the year. Hours of daylight are getting longer and the warmth is gradually building, even if March does have the reputation of being one of the more temperamental months.

This means that we can start preparing more tender types of plants for their time in the sun, keep spring bloomers flowering for longer and also make sure that the infrastructure of the garden is healthy and clean for the bumper growing times ahead.

Our top March jobs from the monthly gardening calendar will get you and your garden ready for brighter, warmer days ahead.

Your checklist of March gardening jobs

It’s time to get the garden ready for the long-awaited arrival of brighter days and better weather, so cross these March gardening jobs off your to-do list and get your outdoor space in the best possible shape.

1. Boost your summer bedding displays

Plug plants are an economical way of buying summer bedding early in the season before stocks run low

Start your list of March gardening jobs by buying plug plants, which are a great way of taking the ‘faff’ out of growing your summer garden because someone else has gone to the trouble of sowing, germinating and then raising the seedlings.

Most garden centers and online retailers sell a virtually endless number of colorful varieties, from fuchsias and petunias to pelargoniums and trailing lobelia and nemesia. Vegetable plug plants are also widely available. The plants are small and bought in trays or singly, in a floral version of the ‘pick and mix’ sweets of old.

If you buy them online, make sure you care for them properly when they arrive as they are delicate and will quickly succumb to adverse conditions as well as pests and disease.

Remove them from their packaging and keep them somewhere sheltered and frost-free outside for around 24 hours. If their compost feels dry to the touch, stand the plants in shallow water for 30 minutes, then leave them to drain.

Fuchsias for summer bedding displays are widely bought as plug plants and grown on at home

Whether you bought your plugs online or from a garden center they should be potted on into 3in (7cm) pots of multi-purpose or John Innes No 2 compost and kept somewhere warm and light, but out of direct sunlight.

Water when their compost is almost dry, and feed every 2-3 weeks with a liquid feed and pot on again if they outgrow their containers. Pinch out the growing tips and early flower buds to encourage bushy, healthy growth.

Top tip: Gradually harden them off (see job number 10 below) when they are large enough, and plant them out when the threat of frosts has passed.

2. Keep spring bulbs looking their best

Feed spring bulbs with liquid tomato fertilizer while they are flowing and dying back to help the bulbs grow and mature

By the time we get to early March, the season of early spring bulbs is in full swing, our gardens and parks a riot of color created by daffodils and tulips, camassias, crocuses, fritillaries and a host of other welcome returners.

Although we say that bulbs are one of the easiest and most versatile ways of adding plants to your pots and flower bed ideas, this doesn’t mean they don’t need care while they are growing.

A key March gardening job is to treat the plants as you would any other. Deadhead flowers when necessary and water and feed with a liquid tomato fertilizer to boost flowering and bulk up the bulb for the following year. Never tie or remove the leaves after flowering as they need to be left attached so they replenish the bulbs as they wither and fade.

Species tulip such as these red Tulipa humilis will come back reliably year after year

If you planted tulips to flower this spring, you may also need to start planning what to do with them once they have finished flowering. Whereas species tulips (usually small flowers on short stems such as Tulipa linifolia and T. tarda) return beautifully year in year out, most varieties (the large, statement plants) tend to flag after a year or so.

For this reason some people like to lift and transfer them to a less visible part of the garden once they have flowered. If this is your intention, wait until their leaves die back before lifting and storing them somewhere cool and dry until you replant in fall.

Top tip: At the end of the season, bulbs that haven’t flowered may need lifting to make sure they are still firm and healthy. If they are, replant them at three times their own depth in fertile sunny soil. Bin any that are diseased or contain pests.

3. Pot on your seedlings

Potting on healthy Salvia seedlings from a seed tray into small individual pots

If you have been following our advice on how to grow flowers from seed, I expect that your windowsills are – like ours – crammed with seed trays and pots of young plants in all stages of development.

Some are yet to appear, some are tiny newly germinated dots of green, while others are in need of moving on from their seed tray into their next home.

These last ones need to be carefully moved from seed compost which is formulated to be low in nutrients to protect tiny germination roots, into meatier compost that will feed strong and healthy growth.

Seedlings are ready to be transplanted when their rounded ‘germination’ leaflets have been replaced by at least two pairs of ‘proper’ leaves that look like small versions of mature foliage.

The smallest seedlings can be moved into John Innes No1 compost, while larger ones will benefit from John Innes No2 or even multipurpose growing media.

Potted-on Salvia seedlings growing in individual cardboard modules on a windowsill

Transplanting seedlings is a relatively easy job to do, and the equipment you need is some 3in (7cm) or a couple of 4-5in (10-15cm) pots, or some large modules, the compost of your choice, a dibber for making holes in the compost and a plant label or old teaspoon.

Simply use the old spoon or plastic plant label to lift the rootball of each plant from the compost, steadying it by gently holding a leaf. Then settle the rootball into the compost hole, still holding the leaves, and gently firm the compost to support the stem.

Place the seedlings somewhere sheltered, like an unheated greenhouse or DIY cold frame. Keep them watered, and plant them out when large enough.

Top tip: Be realistic! If you don’t have the room or the time to nurture every seedling, just keep the most robust ones, and consign the rest to the compost heap.

5. Tidy the shed and care for your tools

Keep your shed tidy and your tools clean and sharp

Things are about to get very busy in the garden so make time to get your shed storage ideas in order and ensure tools and equipment are ready for the tasks ahead.

Get into the habit of cleaning tools after every use and sharpening them regularly. Clean tools are less likely to spread diseases and pests from one plant to others and sharp tools cut cleanly rather than mangling stems, which can create an entry point for disease. And if your tools have seen better days, our tips on how to clean rusty tools will get them back to the best.

While we’re on the subject of general maintenance, don’t forget that cleaning decking and patios by regularly sweeping them will clear them of debris before it has the chance to accumulate and become dangerously slippery.

5. Make sure your pond is healthy

A healthy garden pond surrounded by irises and other flowers

If you are lucky enough to have a garden pond in your plot, getting it ready for the rest of the year is one of the important March gardening jobs.

Before you start, check carefully for frogspawn or signs of any other amphibians as they are useful allies in the fight against garden pests and should be well treated.

The best method for how to clean a pond after winter is to start by removing old, dead and damaged plant material from the water and around the sides to stop it decaying and spoiling the water. It’s also worth testing the water to make sure it is healthy and not likely to accumulate algae over the summer.

Removing dead pond weed in early spring to stop it contaminating the water

Replace any filters and pumps removed over winter and if you are interested in attracting wildlife, add a layer of horticultural sand to the base to form a habitat where invertebrates can shelter and breed.

Fish will be getting active as the weather warms up and will need feeding, initially with a low protein feed followed by one that contains more protein as the weather warms up.

Top tip: After clearing weed from the pond, leave it lying on the side for 48 hours so any creatures trapped in it can return to the water. Then compost it.

6. Keep beds and borders healthy

Weeding not only keeps the garden healthy and looking good, but it’s beneficial to mind and soul as well!

It is a well-known fact that gardening is good for our physical and mental health, but I would add that it has many spiritual benefits too.

Take weeding for example. Yes, it helps the garden by removing unwanted plants that can harbour diseases and pests and swamp your cultivars, but after a rubbish day in the office or a frustrating day elsewhere it is also one of the most soul-soothing and therapeutic of activities imaginable.

On calmer days, it is a good, repetitive occupation that gives the mind space to wander and wonder – though don’t lose all concentration, or you’ll risk grubbing up treasured plants as well as weeds!

Our garden borders are bursting back to life now and need weeding, while last year’s remaining perennial stems need cutting back to make room for emerging new growth, which also needs feeding.

The key to all these March gardening jobs is to tackle them little by little, and often. Keep a fork next to the back door and get out weeding for 10 minutes when you can.

Top tip: Walk around the garden regularly, every day if you can. Watch the soil and feed plants as they appear and flower – it’s a wonderful way to unwind and also the best way of really getting to know your plot.

7. Don’t let pests take over

Making a slug pub or beer trap to protect plants from slugs

The weather is warming up and pests are stirring and hungry. Keeping them at bay is another job that requires frequent, even constant, vigilance as it doesn’t take long for a small colony of pests to become a serious infestation.

Yes, there are sprays and chemicals you can use but I prefer to do things by hand, picking off and squishing caterpillars and aphids. It’s time consuming and not for the squeamish, but it is an extremely satisfying (and effective) method for how to get rid of aphids and other pests.

The larvae of a seven-spot ladybird eating blackfly

Harnessing the power of nature will also help your garden and improve your local environment. Welcome in the garden birds that will strip roses of aphids and pick off caterpillars to feed their hatching broods.

Rewilding a patch of garden somewhere unobtrusive will allow amphibians and helpful insects such as ground beetles and wasps to shelter and use as a home base in between making forays to eat aphids, slugs and other unwanted visitors.

Put out food and fresh water for hedgehogs and cut a hole in your garden fence so they can forage and feed. Not only will this benefit your local natural environment, it will keep your garden healthier too.

Top tip: Organic fumigation candles are a good way of ridding greenhouses of overwintering pests and unlike previous chemical versions, plants can be left inside while they burn.

8. Give perennial containers a boost

Topdress perennial plants in containers, such as these red Asiatic lilies, to feed them through summer

Containers of bulb-grown perennials such as agapanthus and lilies don’t need repotting each year, but for the best results they do need topdressing.

This involves scraping away the top few inches of old compost, making sure you don’t damage any roots, and replacing it with new before adding a granular fertilizer and watering well.

We do this because perennials in containers quickly use up the goodness in their compost and unless it is replaced annually, they will fail to thrive.

Shrubs grown as part of your container gardening ideas need the same treatment for the same reason, and I have also pruned a potted ‘Countess of Wessex’ clematis. This is a group 3 plant, which means it produces big flowers early in the summer and again in autumn.

For the best results, cut the established stems of Group 3 clematis back to the lowest pair of healthy leaf buds. This will ensure fresh healthy growth and flowers at eye level, rather than higher up with bare stems below. For other varieties and groups follow our comprehensive guide on how to prune clematis.

Top tip: Cold weather is still a possibility in many areas this month and compost in containers freezes faster than soil in borders. Make sure you have fleece and bubble wrap handy to wrap around pots and protect plants from frost when it is forecast.

9. Give your lawn some care and love

Scarifying a lawn using a rake to remove moss and dead grass

Lawns have taken a battering over the winter and now they are growing well again, giving them some love with some spring lawn care is a key March gardening job.

Rake up and compost dead plant material from among your grass roots. Leave the rakings somewhere quiet for birds to pick up as nesting materials.

Use your garden fork to open up compacted areas of lawn by plunging the spikes into areas of soil and giving them a wiggle. It improves drainage leading to healthier grass.

Lawn weeds grow all year round and if you don’t fancy using a weedkiller, weed pullers are just as effective.

Removing moss is a big task, especially on lawns that are shaded or prone to waterlogging. Scarifying a lawn and aerating it will help with airflow and drainage, but a ‘complete’ lawn feed and moss killer such as Miracle Gro Evergreen Complete 4-in-1 and Westland’s Aftercut All-in-One (both available from Amazon) are useful tools here. Another excellent product is Sutton’s Mobacter (also from Amazon) which is organic, safe for pets and children and doesn’t blacken moss.

10. Prepare tender plants for the great outdoors

Hardening off tender plants in a cold frame before planting out

Towards the end of the month, one of the most important March gardening jobs is to move tender, half hardy and young plants grown from seeds and cuttings outside after their winter undercover. Even if you live in warmer areas, such as the south of England, they will need to be prepared for the change in environment.

Because they have spent several months in the warm, cossetted stability of a greenhouse or house, the shock of the garden’s changeable conditions can stunt development and even kill them off.

To survive they need to be ‘hardened off’, meaning they should be gradually acclimatised to life outside by being left outside for longer periods over 2-3 weeks until they are fully hardy. The process works by altering the plants’ leaf structure so they become thicker and waxy and able to withstand the elements.

Using fleece to finish hardening off tender and half-hardy plants in spring

There are several stages in the hardening off process.

  • Plants overwintered in a heated environment should first go to an unheated greenhouse for a couple of weeks and then into a cold frame.
  • Keep some horticultural fleece to hand to drape over them on nights when frost is forecast, remembering to remove it during the day when temperatures rise again.
  • Seedlings in heated propagators should be removed on a dull day to reduce the risk of wilting in direct sunlight.
  • Plants in an unheated greenhouse should go straight into a cold frame, the lid opened during the day and closed at night during the first week. Then leave the lid open 24/7 until the plants are ready to go in the ground.
  • Plants moved to an unheated greenhouse from indoors can follow a similar regime.

Top tip: If you don’t have a cold frame, a sheltered spot and a couple of layers of horticultural fleece (try Amazon) during the night, removed in daylight, work just as well.

Rust Colored Spots on Cannabis leaves-Preventing And Fixing

Identifying, Preventing, and Curing Rust Spots

Rust spots or orange spots on cannabis leaves are caused by the following:

  • Cannabis Rust Fungus
  • Nutrient Deficiency
  • Pests

Of the above, rust fungus is the most common reason for these unsightly specks appearing on a cannabis plant. I will go over each of these above situations and then go over preventative measures and ways to cure this issue.

Rust Fungus

Why Should I Care? With out-of-control rust fungal disease, your plant leaves will curl, fall off, and your plant growth will be stunted. What is worse, though, is that the fungi easily spread and affect your other plants. So, you need to make sure that all rust fungi-affected leaves, especially fallen leaves, are removed and disposed of properly.

First Things First-Is It Rust Fungus or Something Else?

Rust fungus frequently appears during the flowering growth stage and is caused by fungal spores that travel from plant to plant. They appear on almost all green, leafy plants, and are a leading cause for these spots appearing on your plants. However, there are other reasons for these spots. So, before trying to fix a rust fungus issue, first, inspect an infected leaf to determine what the problem may be.

Tests

Rust fungus normally appears during the flowering growth stage. It can be detected visually and by touch. Visually, they can be identified by multiple rust-colored spots appearing on the leaves. (There can be hundreds of these specs or spots on a single leaf) And with a touch test, you rub your finger on an affected leaf, if, after rubbing, the spots disappear and stick to your finger or elsewhere, you have a fungus or powdery mildew problem. If the spots remain it is most likely a cannabis nutrient deficiency issue.

What Causes Rust Colored Spots To Show Up?

Rust disease, is a fungal parasite that thrives in a temperate, moist environment, and is spread by air, and even water. As it is parisite, it lives off of other plants. Once a plant is affected, the fungal spores then infect other nearby plants. And when the leaves are damaged it is harder for a plant to absorb its nutrients. This results in a stunted plant that will eventually die.

Preventing Cannabis Rust Fungus

A rust fungus-infected plant cannot be cured. As a result, any affected leaves or stems will need to be carefully discarded. So, prevention is the key. Fortunately, there are several methods of prevention.

Setting Up Your Grow Area

The first step you should take is to ensure that your grow area is at the ideal temperature, adequately ventilated, sanitary, and the air circulates properly. One simple way to assure proper air circulation is by making sure your plants are not placed too close together. So, be sure to not crowd your grow tent.

Choose A Fungi Resistant Strain

Purchasing mold-resistant cannabis strains is the best way for you to start out ahead. This article has information on eight highly resistant mold-resistant cannabis strains. For more strains, just Google “Mold Resistant Strains.”

Apply Preventative Fungicide

Ancient Greeks first used sulfur fungicide over 2,000 years ago. As a result, sulfur is the most time-tested organic fungicide available and helps with rust fungus, powdery mildew, and other plant diseases by stopping fungal spores from germinating. Please note, it only prevents fungal spores from appearing, and once an infection occurs, sulfur fungicide is useless

Lime-Sulfur- Lime sulfur is sulfur that is mixed with calcium hydroxide or lime. It is overall more effective. But, it smells like rotten eggs and should not be used on plant leaves.

Is Sulfur Fungicide Safe?-Sulfur is generally safe. However, you should wait for 30 days to use it after you have used an oil spray on your plants. Also, it is best used when your grow room temperature is below 80 degrees.

Neem Oil

Neem Oil is an organic pesticide and fungicide that is helpful in getting rid of rust disease.

Don’t confuse Cannabis Leaf Septoria with Rust Disease?-Leaf Septoria, is another affliction that affects the leaves of a cannabis plant. Septoria differs from rust fungus, as a plant affected has yellow leaf spots, appearing on the lower leaf,and not rust-colored spots.

Nutrient Deficiencies

A cannabis nutrient deficiency is another reason for unsightly spots appearing on a plant leaf. Some of the more common deficiencies are magnesium deficiency and calcium deficiency.

Be wary of nutrient burn-Overfeeding your plants can be as harmful as not giving you plants enough nutrition.. Overfeeding or over-fertilizing causes nutrient burn, which results in your leaves browning (sometimes the color is reddish), edges drying or curling up, and root damage. Damage done by a nutrient burn cannot be repaired. However, it can be easily recognized, which means that if you pay attention you can stop it from getting any worse.

Calcium, and Magnesium Nutrient Deficiencies

Magnesium Deficiency

A magnesium deficiency is the most common form of nutrient deficiency that you will see in cannabis , and it is signaled by rust spots and leaves turning yellow.

It can be caused by not enough magnesium or when a plant is not able to properly absorb the nutrient.

How Can It Be Prevented?

To prevent it, apply a fertilizer that has magnesium. A spray that uses Epsom salts, like the one shown below, will work.

Magnesium Soil Additive

Calcium Deficiencies

A calcium deficiency is indicated by a leaf having brown edges and/or curly-leaf tips. For a calcium deficiency, you’ll be more likely to see brown spots instead of rust spots. However, it can sometimes be tough to differentiate between the two.

At first, it starts small and is barely noticeable. But, once it gets going, it will come on like gangbusters. You cannot cure a calcium deficiency problem; you can only control and limit the damage, as delaying or ignoring this problem will only make it worse.

Prevention and Treatment

Soil that has a 6.4 pH level or less can cause a deficiency. So, regularly check on your soil PH levels to prevent this from happening. If you do have this problem, apply measures to increase the soil PH levels. Also, you should consider using gardening soil that contains peat.

Other Nutrient Problems

There are multiple nutrient problems that affect a plant’s leaves. Some of which are zinc deficiency, potassium deficiency, and iron deficiency. Each of these problems does not cause rust-covered spots on the plants. So, they are only briefly mentioned. However, a competent cannabis grower should know about and identify each of these problems. For further info, click one of the above links.

How to Fix A Fungal Rust Infection

Fungal disease spreads easily, and a diseased leaf cannot be saved. You may though be able to save other non-infected parts of the plant. So, as stated, preventing this from happening is critical. But, if you do have it, you need to do the following:

  • Remove -First, thoroughly and quickly, remove and dispose of any affected leaves.
  • Apply Fungicide – After clearing and disposing of every infected leaf, you need to spray the remaining healthy plants. The following is highly recommended on Amazon and is specifically designed to deal with fungicide.
  • Properly Dispose of All Damaged Leaves– This step is extremely important as cutting corners can negate any hard work you have done to remove any diseased leaves. Either burn or thrown away any affected plant. So, do not place any of the leaves in a mulch pile, and be sure that the leaves are far away from your healthy plants.

Pest Infestation

A hemp russet mite or a spider mite is a pest that also can cause spots on leaves. However, instead of red, the spots will most likely be a distinctive brown or yellow color. Check out this article for information on getting rid of spider mites during flowering.

Micro View of Spider Mite

Conclusion

Rust colored spots on your cannabis plants are one of the many problems you need to address as a grower. A cannabis rust fungus is the most common reason for this to occur. A rust-infected plant cannot be cured. Therefore is essential that you are able to find out the signs of rust disease and also how to deal with an outbreak. Also, a cannabis gardener will need to know how to detect and deal with a nutrient deficiency. All of the above issues can be prevented or controlled. So, practice proper gardening procedures, recognize any problem signs as early as you can, and you should be fine.

Rust Colored Spots on Cannabis Leaves

Identifying, Preventing, and Curing

Rust spots on cannabis leaves are most likely caused by four situations, which are the following.

  • Cannabis Rust Fungus
  • Calcium Deficiency
  • Magnesium Deficiency
  • Nutrient Burn
  • Pests

Of the above, rust fungus is the most common reason for these unsightly specks appearing on a cannabis plant. I will go over each of these above situations and then go over preventative measures and ways to cure this issue.

First Things First

The first step for you to take before you begin to address this issue is discovering exactly what is causing the spots to appear.

Rust fungus, which can appear on almost all green, leafy plants, is the leading cause for these dots to appear on your plants. However, there are other reasons for these spots. So, never assume that it is a fungus problem, nutrient deficiency, or other problems.

Tests

A mold or fungus infestation be detected visually and also by touching. It can be visually recognized as it causes plants to have multiple rust-colored spots on the affected leaves. (There can be hundreds of these specs or spots on a single leave) Also, the spots

Once you see any spots on your plants, rub your finger on an infected leaf. If, after rubbing, the spots are removed, and they go onto your finger or elsewhere, you have a fungus or powdery mildew. However, if the spots remain there after being touched, it is most likely a nutrient deficiency issue that needs to be addressed.

Rust Fungus

Why Should I Care?

When you have an out-of-control rust fungal disease, your plant leaves will curl and eventually fall off, resulting in stunted plant growth. What is worse, though, is that it will spread and ultimately affect your other plants. So, you need to make sure that all rust fungi-affected leaves, especially includes fallen leaves, are removed and disposed of properly.

How Is It Different From Cannabis Leaf Septoria?

You may have heard of leaf septoria, which is another affliction that affects plants. It is different, however, from rust fungus, as a plant affected with septoria will have a yellow leaf spot and not rust-colored spots. These yellow spots will first appear on the lower leaf of a plant.

What are the Causes?

Rust fungi can thrive on all, green leafy, plants given the right conditions, which are the following:

  • Between 60 to 80 degrees
  • High overall humidity.
  • Rust spots on cannabis leaves will happen most likely during flowering.

Unfortunately, the above is also considered to be the best conditions for growing marijuana.

Preventing Cannabis Rust Fungus

After a plant is affected it cannot be cured. As a result, any affected plants will need to be carefully discarded. So, prevention is the key to dealing with rust fungus. Fortunately, there are several methods of prevention.

Grow Room Environment

The first step you should take is to ensure that your grow area is at the ideal temperature, adequately ventilated, clean grow room, and that the air circulates properly. Proper air circulation can be done by making sure your plants are not placed too close together. So, be sure to buy the correct size grow tent.

Fungicide

You should supply a sulfur-based fungicide. Some examples that are rated highly are the following:

Neem Oil is also recommended.

Fixing It

It spreads easily. So, as stated, preventing this from happening is critical. But, if you do have it, you need to do the following:

  • Remove-You must first remove and dispose of any affected leaves. Rust fungal spores can spread quickly. So, you need to be sure that you do this quickly and thoroughly.
  • Apply Fungicide– After clearing and disposing of affected plants, you need to apply a fungicide to the remaining plants that do not have any problem. The following is highly recommended on Amazon and is specifically designed to deal with fungicide.
  • Proper Dispose Of All Damaged Leaves-Make sure that any infected plants are either burned or thrown away. So, do not place any of the leaves in your mulch pile.

Choose A Fungi Resistant Strain

Fungi Resistant Strains

One way to reduce the chance of having these spots on your plant leaves is by purchasing mold-resistant cannabis strains. The following are the five best mold-resistant strains that Royal Queen Seeds recommend.

  • Stress Killer Automatic-(Hybrid)-Sativa Dominant
  • Shinning Silver Haze-(Hybrid)-Sativa Dominant
  • Power Flower-(Hybrid-Sativa Dominant
  • Royal Moby-Sativa Dominant
  • Northern Light-100% Indica

Click Here for more information on these above strains.

There are many more mold-resistant strains. For further research, I would look at the following websites:

Also, just Google “Mold Resistant Strains,” and you’ll find hundreds of other strains.

Magnesium Deficiency

Rust spots, along with leaves turning yellow, are a few ways to identify magnesium deficiency.

A magnesium deficiency is the most common form of nutrient deficiency that you will see in cannabis . Of course, it can be caused by not enough magnesium. However, it also can happen when cannabis is not able to absorb magnesium efficiently.

Some of the reasons why it would not absorb correctly are below.

  • Too much calcium, potassium, or ammonium, in proportion to the magnesium
  • Very damp, cold, or acidic roots
  • Stunted plant roots
  • Improper, EC, hydroponics ratings.

How Can It Be Prevented?

To prevent it, apply a fertilizer that has magnesium. A spray that uses Epsom salts, like the one shown below will work.

Calcium Deficiencies

Calcium deficiencies also can result in these spots appearing with a dark brown edge or outline. Curly-leaf tips with the aforementioned spots can also signal a deficiency. For a calcium deficiency, you’ll be more likely to see brown spots instead of rust spots. However, it can sometimes be tough to differentiate between the two.

Calcium deficiency starts small and is barely noticeable. But, once it gets going, it will come on like gangbusters. You cannot cure a calcium deficiency problem; you can only control and limit the damage caused by calcium deficiency. And delaying or ignoring this problem will only make it worse.

Prevention and Treatment

Soil that has a 6.4 pH level or less can cause a deficiency. So, regularly check on your soil PH levels to prevent this from happening. If you do have this problem, apply measures to increase the soil PH levels. Also, you should consider using gardening soil that contains peat.

Nutrient Burn

Just like people, you can overfeed your plants. Overfeeding or over-fertilizing plants causes a nutrient burn, and it results in your leaves browning (sometimes the color is reddish), edges drying or curling up, and root damage.

Damage done by a nutrient burn cannot be repaired. However, it can be easily recognized, which means that you should stop any further damage from occurring if you pay attention.

How to Fix It

It is fixed by doing the following:

  • Discard– Remove all damaged leaves and flowers.
  • Clean It Up -Flush out what you are growing your marijuana in (“medium”) with pure water.
  • Treat It -Treat your remaining plants with a plant tonic composed of humic, fulvic acid, and humic, and other assorted vitamins and minerals.
  • Fertilizing – To stop it from reoccurring again, only use a fertilizer that has 3/4 strength.

The following is a summary of how to fix “nutrient burn.” Click Here for a more thorough explanation.

Pests Infestation

A hemp russet mite or spider mite also cost spots on leaves. However, instead of red or orange, the spots will most likely be a distinctive brown or yellow color. Check out this article for information on getting rid of spider mites during flowering.

Micro View of Spider Mite

Conclusion

Rust-colored spots on your cannabis plants are one of the many problems you need to address. Rust fungus is the most likely reason for these rusty specks on your plants. All of the above issues can be prevented or controlled. So, practice proper gardening procedures, recognized any problem signs as early as you can, and you should be fine.