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germinating weed seeds in toilet paper

Germinating cannabis seeds

Growing cannabis of course always begin with germinating cannabis seeds, it sounds really easy and in fact it is !
There are several ways of germinating seeds and each grower has his own favorite way to do it, what works for one person doesn’t mean it works just as well for someone else so if you have doubts just try them all at least one time.

Well, for starters you need cannabis seeds, there are a lot of seeds shops where purchasing seeds is easy, order in time because delivery isn’t always as fast, it’s better to keep them in your fridge for a while instead of the risk of receiving your seeds off schedule.
In this article i will tell you about the most popular way of germinating seeds where you put the seed within two wet tissues.
You can determine yourself when is the best time to start germinating the seeds, when you’re an indoor grower it won’t matter when but if you’re an outdoor grower needless to say you’ll have to wait until the weather is starting to improve.

Take two wet tissues whether it is three layers of toilet paper or paper kitchen towels and wet them completely, be careful they don’t tear.
Water is one of the elements that benefit the germination, just make sure air is circulating, so don’t germinate seeds in air tight places.
When you pick up the seed it is wise to wash your hands, just to be sure to keep it as sterile as can be, invisible acids and dirt on your hands could mess up the germination.

Place it in between the two wet papers and fold them together, after that you can place it all on a plate and put it somewhere where you can keep an eye on it easily to see if the root is becoming visible.
After one or a few days you’ll see the root, as soon as you se it it’s time to plant it in soil, dig a small hole with your finger, about half a centimeter deep and place the seed, root down.

This must be done VERY carefully because the little root is vulnerable and damages easily !
Now it’s a matter of days before the little plant starts to appear above the ground, be good to it and she’ll certainly be good to you !

Top Mistakes to Avoid when Growing Cannabis

Cannabis in retrospect is a fairly easy plant to grow. With that being said, of course mistakes can happen to anyone! Even experienced growers get stuff wrong from time to time. This is why it’s best to try and learn from our mistakes and try and not make the same ones repeatedly.

1. Not Understanding the Genetics that You’re Growing

Although this may sound a bit strange, but this is something that happens occasionally. For example, let’s say a buddy of yours gives you a bag of some awesome seeds. You immediately begin to germinate because you are so excited, but you have no idea what they are = are they indica, Sativa, the genetics, etc. This can already be a bit of an issue because you may not know how to properly grow these plants.

From a macro scale, weed is not just “weed”. There are significant differences amongst seeds when it comes to growing characteristics and conditions. An indica autoflower strain will behave significantly different than a photoperiod sativa. Some strains are suitable growing ina colder climate, whereas others may require a very hot environment. Some strains need a bit more nutrients than others, and some require solely light feeding.

2. Improper Germination

Some grows fail before the seeds even pop. In this section, we’ll go over some of the most common growing mistakes related to germinating seeds.

Here’s what cannabis seeds need in order to pop:

  • A dark and humid (but not wet) environment.
  • Ideal germination temp of 70-80°F
  • RH (relative humidity) between 70-90%
  • Fluorescent lighting is optimal, but a windowsill might do. LED lighting is often mostly recommended.
  • Avoid handling seeds (risk of damaging and contaminating seeds). We suggest wearing gloves when handling seeds
  • Ensure the proper pH of the water (5.5-6.5)
Popular Germination Methods

Glass of water method

Fill a glass of water about halfway with room temperature water and add your seeds. Wait about 2-5 days, the seeds will have properly sprouted. Go ahead and transfer them (carefully and with gloves) over to your medium of choice and let the magic happen

Paper towel method

The paper towel method can be done with any sort of absorbent paper (paper towels, toilet paper, kleenex towels, coffee filters, etc). Carefully place your seeds on the paper a bit spaced apart and cover them up with a few more sheets of paper on top. moisten the paper towel with water and make sure it stays damp. This can be done best with a cheap spray bottle. Be sure to spray or moisten if you feel the towel drying up a bit. We recommend putting the towel with the seeds in a tupperware container and leaving it in a dark and room temp place. After 2-5 days, you will then see tap roots sprout and it is time to add the seeds to your medium – tap root down first.

Germinating directly in soil (oldest method in the book)

Germinating directly in the soil is my personal favorite method because there is a lot less risk involved related to contamination since you only touch the seeds once (when you place them in the soil). The best way to go about this method of germination is to fill your pot of choice up with your medium of choice. Dig a small hole with your finger thats about 2-4 inches deep and place your seed in the hole. Cover the whole up and water it with your pH’d water. Important note: be sure to not water your medium until runoff at this stage. only water the are where you planted the seed. It is easy to overwater if you are germinating directly in a 5gallon pot. If it is a small cup or 3gal pot, you may not have this issue. But watering a 5gal pot till run off before the seedling pops is a bad idea.

The Right Mix for Starting Seeds

Q. I’m really interested in starting my own vegetables from seed this year using soil blocks. But I’m finding quite a disparity in the basic “recipes” for soil block seed starting . They generally involve peat moss, soil from the existing garden, perlite, lime, compost and a fertilizer mix of bloodmeal, greensand and rock phosphate; but they vary. Some omit the garden soil, some omit the lime, and the amount of the fertilizer mix can vary greatly from recipe to recipe. I’ve also been told to find another source of potassium because greensand takes too long to break down to be effective for the young plant’s needs, but I am doubtful of this information. Can you give me any advice?

—Dave in Carlisle PA

A. I would never ever ever include garden soil in a seed-starting mix. But yes to milled peat moss; and yes, you then need a tiny bit of lime or hardwood ash from a wood stove or fireplace to balance the pH, as peat moss is acidic, while lime and wood ash are alkaline. (But you only need a tiny bit; say a teaspoon of lime or ash per quart of peat; “a little dab’ll do ya”).

Perlite—a mined volcanic mineral that’s popped in big ovens until it looks little Styrofoam balls—is absolutely essential in a seed-starting mix . It allows more air around the roots of the developing plants, provides less resistance to the growth of those roots than almost anything else you could use, and greatly promotes drainage.

But that ‘fertilizer mix’ just sounds weird. Your source was correct; greensand takes quite a while to become available to plants; same with rock phosphate. In the outdoor garden they’re typically added to the soil six months to a year in advance to give soil microorganisms time to release the power of their (respectively) potassium and phosphorus. Bloodmeal is a slaughterhouse by-product that does provide Nitrogen, but it’s fairly ‘hot’ and could burn tender young plants; and it certainly wouldn’t be the first choice of plant food for vegetarians.

Instead, use compost . A high quality compost (or worm castings ) will supply all the nutrition that baby plants require and provide it gently. (You’re not supposed to feed young plants more specific fertilizers until the plants have developed a couple sets of true leaves.)

And I personally don’t get the idea of soil blocks—hunks of dirt pressed into a blocky shape with a specialized device—at all. So my ideal seed-starting mixture is for use in containers—recycled garden center six packs or similar vessels that retain water, provide excellent drainage and are long and deep enough to allow maximum root growth.

Now, when I make my own seed-starter, I mix equal amounts of milled peat moss (with a little bit of ash from my wood stove to balance the pH), perlite and screened compost. But I start a LOT of seeds, and often use packaged mixes to save time. These can be called ‘soil-free mix’, ‘professional mix’, ‘sterile medium’, ‘seed starting mix’ or something similar. Some companies substitute coir—shredded coconut fiber—for the peat moss in their mixes and that’s fine. Some premium mixes will include small amounts of gentle natural fertilizers like worm castings, and that’s excellent. Just don’t use mixes that contain chemical fertilizers like Miracle Grow or Osmocote; or ones that have added so-called ‘water-holding crystals’. (Note: These tainted mixes may be the only choice at big box stores).

Q. Dave replies: “OK Mike—tell me how you really feel; don’t hold back! (LOL!) Now, I really want to understand the WHY of a few of these things. I believe the garden soil is meant to prevent some form of shock when transplanting. You seemed very passionate in this answer, what can go wrong by adding a little soil? It’s the same soil the plants will go into in two months; right? And why are seed blocks bad? Last year I used toilet paper cores to start my seeds and planted them right in the ground. That worked fine, but I’d hate to not use the $100 block starter I already paid for!

A. Yes, garden soil is where the plants are going to go eventually, but that soil can contain weed seeds and harbor disease organisms—both of which are much bigger threats to baby plants than big ones. Most garden soils are also heavy with clay, which may help soil blocks hold together better, but sure seems to defeat the root-enhancing purpose of a light, soil-free mix. And having garden soil in the mix won’t lessen transplant shock one bit. The best way to avoid shock is to not plant outside too early in the season, to ‘harden the plants’ off by gradually acclimating them to the great outdoors for a week before actually putting them in the ground, and to install them in the late afternoon instead of early in the morning, so they can get settled in before they have to endure their first long, sunny day.

And finally, I never ‘got’ soil blocks because by definition they compress the soil, which is the opposite of what’s recommended for helping baby plants develop deep roots. However, I DO like your toilet paper core trick. Those little rolls of cardboard have enough depth for excellent root growth, won’t impede that root growth when planted outside, and will decompose over the course of a season. Slide them up a bit at planting time and you have instant cutworm protection as well!

Is the block maker attractive? Maybe you could pose it on a piece of marble and call it art!