Posted on

weed 2 weeks from seed

Two weeks from seedling, wanting to force flower. Opinions?

3 weeks is when u can flip them not before. but why not leave it at least 4 weeks ?

mr buddy
Well-Known Member
mr sunshine
Well-Known Member

are you serious?

3 weeks is when u can flip them not before. but why not leave it at least 4 weeks ?

mr sunshine
Well-Known Member
mr buddy
Well-Known Member
chemphlegm
Well-Known Member
mr sunshine
Well-Known Member
mr buddy
Well-Known Member

The term "12-12" means you’re giving your cannabis plants 12 hours of darkness, and 12 hours of light every day. "12-12 from seed" mean you’re giving a cannabis plant a 12-12 light schedule from a very young age to force it to flower early (make buds).

Some growers are attracted to the idea of 12-12 from seed, because it means that harvest will come sooner. How long does it take to grow a plant from seed to harvest?

But does the 12-12 from seed technique work to give you a faster harvest, and if so, what are the results?

I have changed cannabis plants over to the flowering stage from seed, but no matter what the light schedule, plants don’t start flowering (making buds) until they are about 3 weeks old. Initiating a 12-12 light schedule at 3 weeks old from seed is as early as I’d recommend for this technique, if you choose to use it.

"12-12 From Seed" is a misnomer if you’re trying to force your cannabis to flower early – 3 weeks from seed is the earliest time a plant can start flowering after the switch to 12-12

Make sure to let your young marijuana plants get a minimum 2-3 weeks in the vegetative stage before changing them over to flowering. Your plants will be healthier and will start flowering at the same time as if you started 12-12 from when they first sprout.

Giving a 12-12 shedule when a cannabis plant is younger than that will not work to make the cannabis start flowering – a cannabis plant will only grow vegetatively for the first few weeks of life, and giving them less light will only cause them to grow more slowly.

Some strains of cannabis will naturally start flowering after about 3 weeks, and you don’t need to do anything with light schedules to cause that to happen. These strains are known as "autoflowering" or "Ruderalis" strains.

Many Growers Who Want To Force Cannabis Plants to Flower at a Young Age May Be Interested in Auto-Flowering Strains – No Need for 12-12 and Often Much Better Yields!

I have grown a few plants from seed to harvest just in a solo cup container. I was able to do this by flowering a plant from a young age – giving the plant 12-12 lighting when it was only 3 weeks old (pictured here).

These solo cup plants were able to survive their entire lives in a small container. I wouldn’t recommend a solo cup because they tip over easily, and plants are prone to nutrient and root problems once the flowering stage begins (the root space is just way too small, even when doing 12-12 from seed or using an auto-flowering stage).

But it’s possible.

The downsides. When your cannabis is kept in a too-small container, you will notice that you have to water your plant much more often than if you kept your plant in a big pot. As time goes on, plants are also more likely to suffer from nutrient problems and root problems because the roots aren’t being give enough room to spread out. When plants become root-bound this way, there’s not much you can do about this besides transplanting your plants into a bigger container.

While I wouldn’t recommend 12-12 from seed, and no longer ever use this technique myself, there are growers who are going to do it anyway.

For those growers who still want to use 12-12 from seed despite the warnings here.

If you are set on keeping potted cannabis plants in small containers for their whole lives, the smallest container you should try is a 1-gallon or 2-gallon container, like the pots pictured here.

Keeping plants in tiny containers may be important when growing in a very space-limited grow space, such as growing in a space bucket for stealth reasons.

There are powerful cannabis growth control techniques that will also allow you to grow high-producing plants, while keeping them short.

But like this extreme girl to the right (less than a foot tall and grown under CFLs), I’ve experimented starting the plants on 12/12 from seed to keep plants REALLY small.

When forcing your cannabis to flower early, plants will stay small and spend almost all their energy on producing flowers/buds on what few stems they have, instead of growing tall or making more colas/nodes.

Some people say that cannabis that is forced to flower too early will not make any buds, but that’s not true. The plant pictured here produced 0.75 ounces of bud after drying. So while 12-12 from seed may not be optimal, it does work.

mr buddy
Well-Known Member
mr sunshine
Well-Known Member

The term "12-12" means you’re giving your cannabis plants 12 hours of darkness, and 12 hours of light every day. "12-12 from seed" mean you’re giving a cannabis plant a 12-12 light schedule from a very young age to force it to flower early (make buds).

Wait, why does a 12-12 lighting schedule force cannabis plants to start making buds?
If they are sexually mature enough
Some growers are attracted to the idea of 12-12 from seed, because it means that harvest will come sooner. How long does it take to grow a plant from seed to harvest?

But does the 12-12 from seed technique work to give you a faster harvest, and if so, what are the results?

I have changed cannabis plants over to the flowering stage from seed, but no matter what the light schedule, plants don’t start flowering (making buds) until they are about 3 weeks old. Initiating a 12-12 light schedule at 3 weeks old from seed is as early as I’d recommend for this technique, if you choose to use it.

"12-12 From Seed" is a misnomer if you’re trying to force your cannabis to flower early – 3 weeks from seed is the earliest time a plant can start flowering after the switch to 12-12

Make sure to let your young marijuana plants get a minimum 2-3 weeks in the vegetative stage before changing them over to flowering. Your plants will be healthier and will start flowering at the same time as if you started 12-12 from when they first sprout.

Giving a 12-12 shedule when a cannabis plant is younger than that will not work to make the cannabis start flowering – a cannabis plant will only grow vegetatively for the first few weeks of life, and giving them less light will only cause them to grow more slowly.

Some strains of cannabis will naturally start flowering after about 3 weeks, and you don’t need to do anything with light schedules to cause that to happen. These strains are known as "autoflowering" or "Ruderalis" strains.

Many Growers Who Want To Force Cannabis Plants to Flower at a Young Age May Be Interested in Auto-Flowering Strains – No Need for 12-12 and Often Much Better Yields!

I have grown a few plants from seed to harvest just in a solo cup container. I was able to do this by flowering a plant from a young age – giving the plant 12-12 lighting when it was only 3 weeks old (pictured here).

These solo cup plants were able to survive their entire lives in a small container. I wouldn’t recommend a solo cup because they tip over easily, and plants are prone to nutrient and root problems once the flowering stage begins (the root space is just way too small, even when doing 12-12 from seed or using an auto-flowering stage).

But it’s possible.

The downsides. When your cannabis is kept in a too-small container, you will notice that you have to water your plant much more often than if you kept your plant in a big pot. As time goes on, plants are also more likely to suffer from nutrient problems and root problems because the roots aren’t being give enough room to spread out. When plants become root-bound this way, there’s not much you can do about this besides transplanting your plants into a bigger container.

While I wouldn’t recommend 12-12 from seed, and no longer ever use this technique myself, there are growers who are going to do it anyway.

For those growers who still want to use 12-12 from seed despite the warnings here.

If you are set on keeping potted cannabis plants in small containers for their whole lives, the smallest container you should try is a 1-gallon or 2-gallon container, like the pots pictured here.

Keeping plants in tiny containers may be important when growing in a very space-limited grow space, such as growing in a space bucket for stealth reasons.

There are powerful cannabis growth control techniques that will also allow you to grow high-producing plants, while keeping them short.

If You’re Growing Cannabis

Before October 17, 2018, people would sometimes approach the subject in a roundabout way; “Which of your products do you recommend for growing medicinal herbs in indoor containers?” (Wink wink, nudge nudge.)

Now that Canadian adults can legally grow up to four cannabis plants per household, the questions are more direct. And while general opinions on the topic naturally differ, I appreciate your desire to grow your plants organically in a safe and healthy way, be it for recreational or for medicinal use, or indeed both. After all, who wants toxic pesticide residue on something they smoke, ingest, or put on their skin? The reasons for growing organic weed are not so different from choosing organic food, really.

In many ways, cannabis is a crop like all others — in some ways, it is special. Full disclosure: My advice is based on online research and chats with growers, not on first-hand experience. A few valuable points were learned from a series of infographics and texts published in The Visual Capitalist, itself adapted from information by The Green Organic Dutchman. This I combined with what I know about how to use the products I carry.

I consider EM (probiotics), mycorrhizal fungi, kelp, and fish products essential for growing organic marijuana, with sea minerals a close runner-up.

Plants can be grown in aeroponic or hydroponic systems, or in solid growing media such as soil/compost, peat moss, and coco coir mixes, or rock wool. The following applies mainly to soil-based mixes but can be adapted for soil-less cultivation.

Phase 1: Seed or Cuttings

If you start your plants from seed, give them a leg up by soaking the seed in a weak solution of liquid kelp and EM (1 teaspoon each per 1 liter of water) overnight. Do not soak any longer, and be sure to use up the water the next day (it will not keep). No need to fertilize yet.

For cuttings, dip into the kelp/EM solution when planting and use the rest of the water to moisten the growing medium. I’m told it takes about a week for seeds to germinate, a little longer for cuttings to root.

You can continue using diluted kelp and EM as a soil drench and/or foliar spray every two weeks right until harvest. Keep with the weak solution — more is not better. In fact, it is best to frequently apply small doses of any fertilizer, rather than a whole lot just once or twice.

Phase 2: Seedling Stage or Rooted Cutting

At this stage, plants need high light and humidity, but very few nutrients yet. It lasts 2-3 weeks and is the best time to inoculate with endo-mycorrhizal fungi. These symbiotic fungi later aid in the uptake of water, micronutrients, and the important elements phosphorus and nitrogen, and protect roots from soil-dwelling pathogens.

One application lasts for the plant’s entire life, so it makes sense to do it early, ideally when transplanting into larger containers. The product must touch the roots, either by sprinkling the dry powder onto roots directly or by using water as a carrier. One heaping tablespoon (30g) of “endos”, mixed in 10 liters of tepid water, is enough to treat 40 two-gallon plants!

There is no harm in over-applying, this is just to show how economical the product is. Adjust amounts according to the number of plants and container sizes. Leftover powder stores for at least a year if kept dry, cool, and dark.

Tip: I don’t think mycorrhizal fungi work in aeroponic or hydroponic systems, as they need an aerobic soil environment to thrive. They might have limited usefulness in rock wool.

Phase 3: Vegetative Stage

Plants are putting all their energy into green growth now. This means they want less intense light and lower humidity, and ample nutrient supplies, especially nitrogen. Insect frass fertilizer or liquid fish are the fertilizers of choice. You can also alternate between the two (best of both worlds).

The frass can be mixed dry into the growing medium at a rate of 3 tbsp per gallon of soil volume. Depending on how long your plants are in the vegetative stage, repeat as a topdressing at 1 to 2 tbsp/gallon of soil every two to three weeks. Frass has a pleasant smell and is easy to handle. For foliar application, mix 1-2 tsp of frass into one gallon of water, strain, and spray. Use up any leftovers promptly as the liquid won’t keep.

Fish concentrate, diluted with water, works both in the soil and as a foliar spray, though it is smellier than insect frass. Use 1 cup (250mL) in 2.5 liters of water (1:10 dilution) to drench the soil. For spraying, go down to 4 tsp (20mL) in 1 liter of water (1:50 dilution). Repeat once or twice during vegetative growth. Tip: Do not spray fish on buds/flowers…!

Phase 4: Flowering Stage

As plants decrease green growth and develop flower buds, their needs change from nitrogen to phosphorus plus a variety of trace elements. Remember, if you used mycorrhizal fungi, you can reduce inputs of phosphorus fertilizers because these fungi help plants pick it up more efficiently. Also, keep using your kelp/EM solution throughout.

Discontinue the use of frass or fish, and turn towards broad-spectrum fertilizers like liquid kelp or, if you want to put the icing on the cake, sea minerals. This product contains 80+ different elements in minute amounts and it is particularly useful for maximizing flower and seed quality. It takes as little as two applications of sea mineral concentrate, about two weeks apart, diluted 1:50 with water for soil application (4 tsp/20mL in 1L of water) and 1:100 to spray on foliage (2 tsp/10mL in 1L of water).

Sea minerals last almost indefinitely so what you don’t use this time around, you can keep for the next crop. Store undiluted, cool, and dark.

Phase 5: Harvest – Process – Enjoy!

After harvest, unless there were major problems, the spent growing medium can often be mixed with some high-quality compost and fresh soil amendments and re-used for the next crop. You will have to apply mycorrhizal fungi to the new plants as the mycelium does not persist in the soil after the old plants are removed.

Beyond the products listed above, people have successfully used humic acids (for complex carbon molecules that support nutrient storage and exchange) and compost tea (for microbiology and disease prevention).

I would also recommend glacial rock dust (for trace elements) if locally available, and possibly soft rock phosphate (for phosphorus and calcium) and oyster shell powder (for calcium plus trace elements). Stay away from animal manure unless it has been properly composted (minimum one year, better two). Well made, aerobic, plant-based compost and worm castings, on the other hand, are hugely beneficial, not only for their (rather minor) nutrient content but especially for a wealth of beneficial microorganisms.

How To : Check the progress of weed seeds at 1 and 2 weeks

Watch this horticultural tutorial video to check the progress of the marijuana seeds after one week and again at two and a half weeks. Check out this award winning video that will help you grow your own marijuana plant. Whatever you may call it – the icky sticky, ganja, reefer, cannabis, pot, weed or maryjane, this marijuana growing video will help you cultivate your pot plants like a pro.

Want to master Microsoft Excel and take your work-from-home job prospects to the next level? Jump-start your career with our Premium A-to-Z Microsoft Excel Training Bundle from the new Gadget Hacks Shop and get lifetime access to more than 40 hours of Basic to Advanced instruction on functions, formula, tools, and more.