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weed with large stickery seed pod

What are sticker plants called?

Sandbur is a grass of the Cenchrus genus, also commonly referred to as “stickers” or “sandspurs.” Goatheads (Tribulus terrestris), also known as “puncturevine,” have tiny yellow flowers; delicate, compound leaves; and spiny seeds that are even meaner and tougher than sandburs.

What plant do stickers come from?

Stickers or sticker weed come from burweed or sandbur —a lateral and low-growing grass like weed. This grass bur germinates early in the fall and dies sometime in spring. The seeds of bur weed go on to become stickers during spring. Grass stickers come in a variety of different forms and go by as many names.

What is the name for sticker burrs?

Sticker burrs (Cenchrus echinatus), also called sandburs or grass burrs, annoy you and your pets as the small, prickly seed casings stick to your clothes or your pet’s fur. They might even stick your fingers as you remove them.

What is a sticker bush?

Any of various plants or shrubs having thorns, burrs, etc., that prick or cling to clothing or animal fur.

What plant do burrs grow on?

Noogoora burr is an annual plant that produces a woody burr. It is widespread through most of NSW.

How do you get rid of Burweed?

The best strategy in controlling lawn burweed is to apply a preemergence herbicide, containing the active ingredients atrazine or isoxaben in late September to early October, before the winter weeds germinate. This method will kill it upon sprouting and greatly reduce its presence in your yard next spring.

What can I spray my yard with for stickers?

Pour 0.42 pints, or a bit over 3/4 cup, of a water-soluble herbicide containing 38.7 percent pendimethalin and 1 gallon of water in the tank of a pump sprayer if you expect a modest growth of stickers in grass. Use 10.08 ounces, or about 1 1/4 cup, of herbicide and 1 gallon of water if you expect a heavy infestation.

What are Burr weeds?

Burr medic ( Medicago polymorpha ), also known as burr weed, is a type of trifoliate weed that can quickly spread throughout the lawn and garden if not controlled. After flowering, the tiny green pods produce prickly burrs. These will eventually dry up and turn brown, spreading seeds everywhere.

What are grass burrs?

Field sandbur (grassbur) is a summer annual grassy weed that can be found in home lawns, sports fields, parks and along roadsides. The big problem with this weed is the sharp, spiny burs that are part of the inflorescence. These burs can be painful and are difficult to remove from clothing material.

What weeds have burrs?

Bathurst burr (Xanthium spinosum) Bathurst burr is an annual summer growing weed that has naturalised in NSW from the coast to the western plains. It was one of the first plants declared noxious in NSW.

How do you get rid of puncture vines?

In most situations, puncturevine is best controlled by hand removal or by hoeing to cut the plant off at its taproot. Monitoring the area and removing the weed throughout the late spring and into the summer will greatly reduce the impact of the weed the next year.

What are the prickly weeds in my yard?

Sticky spurweed (Soliva sessilis) plants and other weeds are competing with your lawn. Lawn spurweed is an equal opportunity pest plant that occurs in most regions of the United States. It is quite invasive and is prickly and painful on your feet and legs.

Are burrs invasive?

Burrs function as hooks to attach the seed pod or plant part to a moving host. Once it lands in a new location, the seed or plant tries to root and begin the process all over again, making these species highly invasive in nature.

Where do burrs grow?

Annual sandbur plants (Cenchrus spp.) thrive in warm, sandy soils across much of the United States. These grow up to 20 inches in height and feature leaf blades with downy surfaces and smooth undersides. Their round, 2 1/2-inch burrs occur in vertical clusters, and have skin-piercing hooks.

Biocontrol Agents: Noxious Weed Control’s Unsung Heroes

On a cold and rainy May morning, I walk with Weed Specialist Karen Peterson along the bluffs at the west edge of Seattle’s Discovery Park. As usual, we’re here to control weeds—in this case, a large stand of Scotch broom (Cytisus scoparius)—but we’re not doing it in the usual way. I’m holding what looks like a pint of ice cream with a sticker where its flavor should be. “Release on: SCOTCH BROOM,” the sticker reads. And on the next line: “KEEP INSECTS COOL.” When we reach a sandy trail that switchbacks down the slope, Peterson stops and pulls out a soggy map. “This is it,” she says, and clambers down.

Weed Specialist Karen Peterson releases 200 Scotch broom bruchids (Bruchidius villosus) onto a mature Scotch broom plant at Seattle’s Discovery Park.

The Scotch broom bruchid (Bruchidius villosus) is a 2-mm-long dark gray beetle that looks, to many of us, almost impressively unassuming. It’s also one of two common biological control agents for Scotch broom in King County. The other is the equally inconspicuous Scotch broom seed weevil (Exapion fuscirostre).

Left: Scotch broom weevil (Exapion fuscirostre). Right: Scotch broom bruchid (Bruchidius villosus). Photo courtesy of Jennifer Andreas, Washington State University Extension.

Every spring, Scotch broom bruchid females lay their eggs on their namesake plants’ seed pods. One to two weeks later, each newly hatched larvae digs its way into a seed, where it eats and pupates, emerging when the seed pod opens in July or August. Scotch broom seed weevil has a life cycle similar to that of the Scotch broom bruchid, but eats the seeds’ outer rims.

A Scotch broom weevil larva (left) eats the outer shell of its Scotch broom seed, while a Scotch broom bruchid larva (right) eats its seed’s interior. Photo courtesy of Jennifer Andreas, Washington State University Extension.

By destroying Scotch broom seeds, the two beetles inhibit the noxious weed’s spread—sometimes by huge amounts. For instance, in North Carolina the bruchid often destroys more than 80% of Scotch broom seeds. In our area, the success rate is as high as 95%, though it varies significantly across sites.

Two scotch broom seeds, with (left) and without (right) Scotch broom bruchid larvae inside. Photo courtesy of Jennifer Andreas, Washington State University Extension.

Scotch broom bruchid (top) and Scotch broom weevil (bottom) adults beside jobs well-done. Photos courtesy of Jennifer Andreas, Washington State University Extension.

About a week after my field trip with Karen, I travel with Weed Specialists Ben Peterson and Patrick Sowers to Mercer Slough to release another biocontrol agent, the loosestrife root weevil (Hylobius transversovittatus)—one of three biocontrol agents for purple loosestrife, a regulated Class B noxious weed. The root weevil’s larvae feed on purple loosestrife root systems, while adults cause additional damage by eating the plant’s leaves.

Education Specialist Nathaniel Dolton-Thornton releases loosestrife root weevils at the base of young purple loosestrife plants in Mercer Slough. Loosestrife root weevils circle above a mound of purple loosestrife cuttings. A loosestrife root weevil arrives at its new home.

Though the loosestrife root weevil is much larger than the two Scotch broom beetles, the hard work of all three insects is easy to overlook. As with many biological control agents, their actions take time to produce results. Biocontrol agents aren’t “magic bullets” for noxious weed control, but they’re often an important part of an Integrated Pest Management plan. The Scotch broom bruchid, Scotch broom seed weevil, and loosestrife root weevil are just three of many such agents for noxious weeds in King County. All told, biocontrol agents exist for nearly twenty of Washington’s noxious weed species, doing their part to help us reduce the impacts of noxious weeds in King County.

Will herbicides (like RoundUp) prevent stickers from germinating?

I’m fighting a losing battle with these plants (pictured). No idea what they are called, but I always just call them “stickers”.

I tried pulling them with the sticker pods intact and disposing of them to prevent them from spreading as much as possible, but that hasn’t been effective. I’m thinking about applying a herbicide whenever I see a patch of them, but I’m thinking that by the time they have the seed pods developed it might be too late to do any good because the next generation is on the way.

My question is this: Will spraying herbicides (such as RoundUp) “kill” the sticker seed pods and prevent them from germinating in addition to killing the plant they are attached to?

3 Answers 3

Round Up is a herbicide which kill ‘through the green’. The best time to apply is when the plant is growing strongly, the soil is damp, and the weather reasonably fair and not windy. Spray all stems till run off. Repeat applications might be necessary, but if you treat the plant before it flowers and sets seed, then it won’t flower and set seed. Once the seeds are formed, Round up will not have any effect on them.

A word about Round Up – try to find glyphosate instead. This is the active ingredient in Round Up without the other surfactants and ingredients which have an impact on the environment. Glyphosate bought as a generic is cheaper, and when mixing it with water to spray or apply by can, adding a dash of washing up liquid helps it to penetrate plant tissues.

@Bamboo-spray until runoff?? That’s the exact problem even chemical users can agree on.

It’s just as effective to pull them up, which isn’t nearly as “easy” but does the work better without poisoning you, the plants you want to keep, wildlife, the soil, etc. A pair of strong, thick gloves and some long sleeves is cheaper and about 1000% times safer than what they’re selling you. Plus, it’s not going to stop them from coming back next year and the year after.

I had the exact same problem as you are describing! A sticker INFESTATION! It got so bad at one point that I couldn’t walk around inside my house without shoes on because I my bare feet would find them in the carpet! Really annoying.

I would pull the stems as I saw them pop up and I burned them in a burn barrel. It was tedious and seemed never ending so for the rest of that year I just mowed and bagged my yard clippings. Not fun either but pretty effective.

Then middle to end of February apply a pre-emergent (make sure you cover all of your yard) then make sure you reapply pre-emergent 3 months later for a total of 3 times.

My 1st year doing this it was amazing seeing how good it worked but I procrastinated applying the 2nd dose on time and they came back. If you apply when you are supposed to you will defeat these stickers! Also throughout all my research trying to figure this out myself I learned that these stickers are a sign of your lawn crying out for help and fertilzer is a big help. Fertilize Fertilize Fertilize. I went through A LOT of trial and error before I found what worked for me! I wrote this because I understand everything that comes along with this problem and hope this will help you to fix your problem quicker than I did! Give it a try!